Agra

Marble mausoleum of shimmering inlay and symmetrical gardens, most magical in early morning. Closed Fridays.

Red sandstone fortress and palace beside the Yamuna, with halls where Mughal emperors ruled.

Abandoned sixteenth-century capital of Akbar with palaces, courtyards and a huge gateway.

Garden across the river with a clear sunset view of the Taj, quieter than the main entrance.

Delicate marble tomb with intricate pietra dura inlay, an early model for the Taj.

Grand sandstone and marble tomb set in leafy gardens with grazing deer and monkeys.

Sixteenth-century red sandstone mosque with a stepped platform, beside bustling Kinari Bazaar.

Wetland sanctuary with hundreds of bird species, best explored by cycle rickshaw in winter.

Boat trip on a clean river to spot gharial crocodiles, turtles and birds.

Lake and woodland sanctuary with a bear rescue centre, quiet and green.

Sacred towns linked to Krishna, full of temples, devotional singing and ghats.

One of the earliest Mughal gardens, with channels and pavilions that look as they did centuries ago.

Lively market around Jama Masjid for textiles, zari, leather and sweets.

Sample Agra's famous translucent pumpkin sweet in dozens of flavours at long-running shops.

Watch descendants of Taj craftsmen cut and fit tiny stones into marble.

Fried lentil bread with spicy potato curry, followed by hot jalebis, the classic local start to the day.

Craft complex near the Taj with artisan stalls, folk shows and food courts.

Persian-style tomb with glazed tile decoration on the river bank, rarely visited.

Quiet sandstone tomb of Akbar's wife, a few steps from the more famous mausoleum.

Riverside gardens and pavilions a short walk from the main sights, a calm spot to rest.

Riverside Shiva temple on the Yamuna, where pilgrims gather on festival days.