Local FavouritesLocal institution (serving since around 1950)
Kashi Chat Bhandar
The best-known address for Banaras's signature tomato chaat — expect crowds in the evening.
Order Tamatar chaat; palak chaat; golgappe
North India · India
Varanasi
One of the world's oldest living cities: sacred ghats, evening prayer ceremonies, silk weavers, winding lanes and nearby Buddhist Sarnath.
Best timeOctober to March
Ideal trip2–3 days
Budget level₹₹₹₹
Getting thereLal Bahadur Shastri Airport; Varanasi Junction railway station
Great Okay Not ideal
SpiritualityCulturePhotographyFood
Four ways to see Varanasi
Touristy, offbeat, local or hidden?
Every traveller is different. Browse by style, then let the planner mix them into a day-by-day plan.
The famous must-sees
Dashashwamedh Ganga AartiFree
Nightly ceremony with lamps, bells and chanting on the riverfront steps. Arrive early for a seat.
spiritual · about 1.5 hrs · best in the eveningSunrise boat ride on the Ganges≈ ₹300
Row past ghats at dawn as pilgrims bathe and temples glow. Agree the fare before boarding.
scenic · about 2 hrs · best in the morningFree alternative: Assi to Dashashwamedh ghat walk — Free walk along the river steps at dawn; gives similar views from the bank instead of the water.
Kashi Vishwanath TempleFree
The city's holiest Shiva shrine, with a modern corridor to the river. Expect security checks and queues.
spiritual · about 2 hrs · best in the morningSarnath≈ ₹25
Where the Buddha gave his first sermon, with the Dhamek Stupa, ruins and a good museum.
spiritual · about 3 hrs · best in the morningFree alternative: Thai Temple, Sarnath — Free temple in Sarnath with calm gardens; shows Buddhist heritage but not the main ruins.
Assi GhatFree
Laid-back southern ghat with morning yoga, music and a calmer vibe than the central ghats.
culture · about 1.5 hrs · best in the morningRamnagar Fort≈ ₹50
Eighteenth-century riverside fort of the Varanasi royal family, with vintage cars and a small museum.
culture · about 1.5 hrs · best in the afternoonSankat Mochan Hanuman TempleFree
Popular Hanuman temple known for its calm evenings and annual classical music festival.
spiritual · about 1 hr · best in the eveningQuieter, still easy to reach
Tulsi GhatFree
Ghat linked with the poet Tulsidas, with wrestlers' training grounds and quiet riverside lanes.
culture · about 1 hr · best in the morningBharat Kala Bhavan, BHU≈ ₹50
University museum with miniature paintings, sculpture and textiles, set within a calm green campus.
culture · about 2 hrs · best in the afternoonFree alternative: Bharat Mata Mandir — Free temple with a marble relief map, a small but memorable cultural stop.
Bharat Mata MandirFree
Unusual temple with a giant marble relief map of India instead of idols.
culture · about 1 hr · best in the afternoonChunar FortFree
Hilltop fort overlooking the Ganges, with centuries of history and quiet walks.
culture · about 3 hrs · best in the morningDurga Kund TempleFree
Red temple beside a rectangular tank, busy with local worshippers, especially on festival days.
spiritual · about 1 hr · best in the eveningFood, markets, crafts and people
Kachori Gali breakfast≈ ₹100
Eat hot kachori with potato sabzi and jalebis in a lane near Vishwanath temple.
food · about 1 hr · best in the morningBlue Lassi≈ ₹100
Tiny shop serving thick curd lassi in clay cups, in dozens of flavours and a famous city stop.
food · about 0.75 hrs · best in the afternoonBanarasi silk weaving visitFree
Visit a weaver's workshop where brocade saris are woven on hand looms in family homes.
culture · about 2 hrs · best in the morningPaan and thandai≈ ₹60
Sample Banaras's signature betel leaf and cooling milk drink at long-running street stalls.
food · about 1 hr · best in the eveningClassical music evening at Assi GhatFree
Listen to sitar and tabla or take a short lesson; the city is a heartland of Hindustani music.
culture · about 2 hrs · best in the eveningSpots most visitors miss
Lolark KundFree
Ancient stepped tank beside Assi, tied to sun worship and hardly visited by tourists.
culture · about 1 hr · best in the morningTilbhandeshwar TempleFree
Old Shiva temple with a Shivalinga said to grow each year, tucked in the lanes.
spiritual · about 1 hr · best in the morningNepali Temple at Lalita GhatFree
Wood-carved pagoda-style temple built by Nepali royalty, rarely seen outside local circles.
culture · about 1 hr · best in the morningAdi Keshav GhatFree
Quiet northern ghat where the Varuna meets the Ganges, ideal for sunset and silence.
scenic · about 1.5 hrs · best in the eveningEntry fees and times are approximate, per adult, and change often — we confirm everything before you book. Last reviewed November 2026.
Specialities
What Varanasi is famous for
food
Kachori sabzi and jalebi
A hot, spicy breakfast eaten in lanes by Kashi Vishwanath.
food
Tamatar chaat and baati chokha
Spicy tomato chaat and roasted wheat balls with mashed vegetables.
food
Banarasi paan and malaiyo
Betel leaf with sweet fillings and a winter milk-foam dessert.
drink
Lassi in clay cups and thandai
Thick curd drink and almond-spice milk served in the old city.
craft
Banarasi silk brocade
Fine woven saris and fabrics, made on handlooms in neighbourhood workshops.
craft
Wooden toys and glass beads
Local toys and ornaments crafted by artisan families.
experience
Dawn boat ride and evening aarti
See ghats at sunrise and attend the evening lamp ceremony.
Where to eat
A taste of Varanasi
From the stalls locals queue at to the tables critics travel for — chosen for flavour, character and a warm welcome.
Must try
- Kachori-sabzi with jalebi vegThe Banarasi breakfast: crisp kachoris with spicy potato curry, finished with jalebi.
- Tamatar chaat vegVaranasi's own chaat — spiced tomato mash served hot with crunchy toppings in a leaf bowl.
- Malaiyo vegSaffron-tinged milk froth set by winter dew; sold only on winter mornings (roughly Nov–Feb).
- Lassi in a kulhad vegThick lassi topped with malai, often with fruit flavours.
- Banarasi paan vegBetel-leaf digestive folded with sweet fillings — the city's famous after-meal ritual.
- Baati chokha vegRoasted wheat balls with smoky mashed aubergine and potato — rustic eastern UP food.
Street food trail
Banaras old-city morning: malaiyo, kachori and lassi
- Best time
- 7–11 am (malaiyo only November to February), with chaat after 5 pm
- Takes
- 2.5–3 hours
- Start at
- Godowlia crossing / Chowk
- Budget
- ₹300–500
- Malaiyo vendorsChowk and lanes near Godowlia
Try Malaiyo, a saffron milk foam that is a winter-morning only treat (veg)
Sold early (roughly 7–10 am) and only in winter; November is the start of the season.
₹40–80Map
- Ram BhandarThatheri Bazaar, Chowk
Try Kachori-sabzi (veg); jalebi (veg)
Morning-only shop; closes by late morning.
₹60–100Map
- Kachori GaliLane between Vishwanath Gali and Manikarnika
Try Kachori with aloo sabzi (veg); hot jalebi (veg)
Narrow, crowded lane; go with a guide if older travellers.
₹50–100Map
- Blue LassiNear Manikarnika Ghat lanes
Try Fruit lassi in a clay cup (veg)
Funeral processions pass by; be respectful.
₹80–150Map
- Kashi Chaat BhandarGodowlia
Try Tamatar chaat (veg); palak patta chaat (veg)
Come back in the evening after the Ganga aarti; it gets packed.
₹80–150Map
Eat smart · every traveller
Diets & dietary needs
- Vegetarian
- Excellent: the ghat area and old city are overwhelmingly vegetarian.
- Vegan
- Hard: ghee, milk and dahi dominate; kachori-sabzi is often fried in oil, so ask.
- Jain (no onion, garlic)
- Moderate: sweets and some chaats can be done without onion; aloo sabzi has potato.
- Halal
- Available in Muslim areas such as Madanpura and Dal Mandi; ask locally.
- Gluten-free
- Difficult; tamatar chaat contains some fried crumbs, so ask.
- With children
- Malaiyo, lassi and jalebi; avoid street water and ice.
- Spice level
- Medium; tamatar chaat is spicy-sweet. Say 'teekha kam'. Hindi (and Bhojpuri) work everywhere.
Say it like a local
Useful phrases
- I am vegetarianMain shakahari hoonmain sha-kaa-haa-ree hoon
- No meat, no fish, no eggMaans, machhli, anda nahinmaans, mutch-lee, un-daa na-heen
- Not spicy, pleaseTeekha kam, pleasetee-khaa kum, please
- How much?Kitne ka hai?kit-nay kaa hai
- Delicious! (Banarasi)Ka baat hai, guru!kaa baat hai, gu-ru
- UPI is everywhere; keep coins and small notes for boats and offerings.
- Lanes are a maze; save your hotel location offline and use landmarks (ghats).
- Avoid 'silk factory' and 'free ghat tour' touts.
- Try a Banarasi paan after dinner, and ask for no tobacco ('sada').
Trail stops, hours and prices are approximate and stalls move — check locally. Pronunciations are simplified guides. Last reviewed 9 November 2026.
Where to eat, by budget
Street food, markets and humble legends
Local FavouritesOld-city institution (said to date to the 1880s)
Ram Bhandar
A morning-only favourite for kachori-sabzi in the old city lanes; go early.
Order Kachori-sabzi; jalebi
Local FavouritesFamous with travellers (Lonely Planet recommended)
Blue Lassi Shop
A tiny shop making thick lassis in clay cups; note cremation processions pass by on the lane.
Order Fruit or chocolate lassi
Acclaimed cafés and celebrated mid-range tables
Award-winning tables, tasting menus and grand hotel dining
Fine Dining & SplurgeTaj signature Indian restaurant
Varuna (Taj Ganges)
A polished hotel dining room that showcases local Banarasi and North Indian dishes.
Order Banarasi specialities; Awadhi kebabs; thali
Fine Dining & SplurgeFormer royal palace; Taj luxury property
Taj Nadesar Palace (in-house dining)
A small heritage palace hotel; dining is personal and best arranged in advance.
Order Saatvik thali (no onion/garlic); galouti kebabs
Fine Dining & SplurgeHeritage ghat-side palace hotel (Fodor's listed)
Darbhanga (BrijRama Palace)
Dine in a stone-walled, chandeliered palace right on the ghats — arrive by boat for effect.
Order Vegetarian Banarasi tasting dishes
Restaurants change hours, menus and prices often; awards are as published at the time of checking. Approximate — verify before you go. Last reviewed 9 November 2026. All our food picks
Time it right
Festivals & events
MarIndia
Maha Shivaratri
Kashi Vishwanath area and ghats, Varanasi, India · About 6 March 2027 (lunar calendar — confirm closer to the time)
A night of fasting, chanting and temple queues dedicated to Lord Shiva, with a wedding procession through the old lanes. Varanasi feels especially intense on this night.
Tip: Temple queues are very long; visit the ghats and smaller temples instead if you dislike crowds.
NovIndia
Dev Deepawali
Ghats of Varanasi, India · About 14 November 2027, on Kartik Purnima (lunar calendar — confirm closer to the time)
Millions of earthen lamps are lit along Varanasi's ghats, and the river becomes a ribbon of light. Grand Ganga aarti ceremonies and boat rides make this an unforgettable evening.
Tip: Book boat rides and riverfront stays in advance; pre-reserve a boat for sunset.
Local tip: Walk the ghats on foot; avoid photographing cremation areas and always follow your guide's instructions.
Make Varanasi yours
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