The Taste of Travel: Assamese pitha and the Bihu table

In Assam the harvest is celebrated with rice. Pitha, rice cakes cooked in many ways, are central to Magh Bihu: some are steamed, some roasted on a hot surface, some filled with sesame and jaggery or with coconut. Laru, small coconut and sesame sweets, are made in large batches and shared with visitors.

At the Uruka night feast, food is cooked communally, often outdoors, and served on banana leaf in a shared meal. At other times of year, an Assamese meal is built around rice with simple, lightly spiced dishes such as khar, an alkaline preparation made with raw papaya or pulses, and fish cooked in a thin, tangy broth.

Where to try it: a family or homestay invitation is the best route; local restaurants in Guwahati and Jorhat serve Assamese thali. Ask your host to explain each dish; hospitality in Assam includes explanation. If you eat vegetarian, tell your host in advance.