Venice at Carnival: a mask, a canal and a plan

Venice's Carnival is among the oldest and most photographed in the world. The 2026 edition runs from 31 January to 17 February and its theme, announced by the city, is Olympus, linking the carnival to the Winter Olympic Games hosted in northern Italy that year. Most of the major events take place from the second week onwards, and the festival ends on 17 February with a closing night on the water.

The mask is the point. Visitors in costume stroll in St Mark's Square and across the bridges, and the most elaborate outfits draw crowds of photographers. If you want to take portraits, ask politely first; many costumed visitors are happy to pose, but not all. For a quieter experience, go in the early morning when the light is soft and the streets are nearly empty.

Crowds are the main practical challenge. The last weekend of Carnival is the busiest, with long queues for waterbuses and bridges congested with foot traffic. Consider staying on the mainland, in Mestre, and taking the train in, or choose a weekday visit. Book trains and hotels early, and check the city's own pages for the official programme, which is announced in stages.

Venice has also been experimenting with a day-visitor access fee on selected days. The 2026 calendar of fee days was announced in December 2025 and covers spring and summer; check the city's official portal for the current list, as it can change. Overnight guests are exempt.

The city rewards slowness. Walk away from St Mark's and the Rialto into quieter districts such as Cannaregio or Dorsoduro. Try the fried carnival sweets, frittelle and galani, and sit down in a bacaro, a small Venetian wine bar, for cicchetti, the city's small snacks.

In February Venice is cold and damp, and streets near the lagoon can flood at high tide; boots are useful. Check the city's tide service when you arrive.