Alaska: Brooks Falls and the bears that eat the river

Katmai National Park and Preserve, in southern Alaska, was established in 1918 to protect the land around the Novarupta volcano and the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Today it is better known for its bears. The National Park Service says Katmai has thousands of brown bears, and that between 200,000 and 400,000 sockeye salmon jump Brooks Falls each year. In July, bears often stand on the lip of the falls to catch salmon in mid-air.

Brooks Camp, near the falls, is the park's most popular destination, according to the Park Service. It is reached by air; most visitors fly by floatplane from King Salmon, which itself is reached by plane from Anchorage. Visitors should check the Park Service website for current access arrangements, any reservation or viewing-platform rules and bear-safety guidelines, which are enforced.

Timing matters. July is the classic month, when the salmon run is at its peak. Bears return to the falls in September, when they are fattening for winter. Fat Bear Week, an online contest in which the public votes for the biggest bear, is run each year by the Park Service with the media organisation Explore.org, in early autumn; its dates are announced annually.

The rules are simple and firm. Stay on the walkways and platforms, keep the distance the rangers tell you, never run, never approach and never leave food unattended. Bears at Brooks are used to people, but they are wild animals, and rangers will close paths when bears are close.

Entry: most foreign visitors need a US visa or an ESTA, depending on nationality; check the US government's official sites. Prices for flights and lodging at Brooks Camp are high, and reservations are often made many months ahead; confirm details with the Park Service before planning.