Weaving the Zapotec valley, one dye at a time

Teotitlán del Valle sits in the foothills of the Sierra Juárez, about 31 km from Oaxaca City. It is known for wool rugs woven on hand-operated looms, combining historical Zapotec designs with contemporary ones. The local name for the weavings is laadi, and a reference summary says weaving here goes back at least to around 500 BCE.

Wool is dyed mainly with local natural dyes, including cochineal, indigo, Brazilwood and Mexican marigold, though some workshops use chemical dyes. A reference summary names a number of weavers and workshops: Arnulfo Mendoza, associated with Casa Serra Sagrada; Artesanía Casa Santiago, a workshop on the main street since 1966; and Aida Vásquez Gutiérrez and her husband Manuel.

The town had about 4,400 people in its centre in 2005. Many workshops let visitors watch the weaving process, and a community museum and archaeological zone are nearby.

For travellers: ask workshops about their dyes and techniques, buy directly from the weavers, and expect to pay a fair price. Rugs made with natural dyes take longer and cost more; a very low price is a sign that something has been cut.