The Taste of Travel: Naga kitchens

Naga cooking is built on a few strong ideas: smoke, fermentation and the careful use of chilli. Pork is often smoked or boiled with bamboo shoot. Axone, a fermented soybean preparation, gives dishes a deep, pungent savour. And the Naga king chilli, famous for its heat, appears sparingly and with respect.

In many homes, food is cooked simply, with little oil, and served with rice. Visitors who are used to restaurant curries will find the flavours very different — and worth approaching with curiosity.

Where to try it: Kohima's local restaurants, the Hornbill Festival morungs and homestays that cook for guests. Check ahead if you eat vegetarian; many dishes involve meat or fish, though a good host can usually cook greens, rice, lentils and vegetables.