Hampi: a ruined capital among the boulders

Hampi, in northern Karnataka, was the heart of the Vijayanagara Empire, one of the largest cities of its time. The ruins spread across a landscape of rounded granite boulders and banana and paddy fields along the Tungabhadra river, and the Group of Monuments at Hampi has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1986.

It is a place that rewards slow moving. The Virupaksha Temple, still a working temple, anchors the old bazaar. The Vitthala Temple complex, with its famous stone chariot, is the best known of the monuments and opens in the morning; the official tourism listing gives roughly 8.30 am to 5.30 pm, though hours change. Further out, the Lotus Mahal and elephant stables, the royal enclosure and the stepped tank show the scale of the city. Do not try to see everything: choose two or three areas and give each a morning or an afternoon.

Two people can cover a great deal by bicycle or on foot, but heat is the constraint. February is pleasant, with warm days and cool mornings, yet the middle of the day is bright and hot, and there is little shade on the rocky paths. Start early, rest in the afternoon and go back out near sunset, when the light on the boulders is at its best. Carry water and wear a hat and sturdy sandals that are easy to remove at temples.

Across the river, the Virupapur Gaddi side offers guesthouses and cafes in a more relaxed setting. Crossing is by small boat, and timings depend on water levels and local rules, so ask your host before planning a late return. There is also a short walk or ride to Anegundi, an older settlement with village crafts.

Hampi is a living place, not an open-air museum. People live and farm among the ruins, and the temple is active. Ask before photographing people, keep to marked paths, do not climb on carved structures, and take your waste with you. If you hire a guide, choose one with a government-approved licence.