Tawang in Losar season: monasteries, passes and permits

Tawang, in the far north-west of Arunachal Pradesh, sits at about 3,000 metres on a ridge near the borders with Bhutan and Tibet. It is home to the Monpa people, to the largest Buddhist monastery in India and to a road journey that is half the point. The route climbs from the Assam plains through Bhalukpong, Bomdila and Dirang, crosses Sela Pass at over 4,000 metres, and drops into the Tawang valley. Most travellers spend two days on the road in each direction, and landslides or snow can add more.

Tawang Monastery, a Gelug-tradition monastery founded in the seventeenth century, dominates the town. Visitors are welcome to walk through the courtyard and prayer hall; the usual etiquette applies. Dress modestly, remove shoes and hats before entering prayer rooms, ask before photographing monks or ceremonies, and walk clockwise around shrines and prayer wheels.

February 2026 brings Losar, the Tibetan New Year, on 18 February, according to the dates reported for the Year of the Fire Horse. Monpa communities celebrate it with prayers, family visits and feasts, and monasteries hold ceremonies in the days around it. As with any religious festival, check with your hosts about what is open to visitors, and treat it as a community occasion before a tourist one. Dates and the form of celebrations differ between villages, so confirm locally.

Permits come first. Indian citizens who live outside Arunachal need an Inner Line Permit, which can be applied for online through the state government's e-ILP portal; approvals are often quick, but you should apply well ahead and carry printouts and photo identification, which are checked at entry points. Some areas, such as Bum La, need separate permission obtained locally. Foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit and are usually required to travel through a registered operator; the process has changed over the years, so confirm with the Ministry of Home Affairs or the Arunachal tourism department before you book.

Cold is the other factor. Tawang in February is cold, and roads can be icy. Carry layers and warm footwear, allow an extra day for weather, and give yourself time to adjust to altitude: if you have headaches or breathlessness, rest and descend if symptoms persist. Many visitors find that two or three nights in Tawang, with day trips to nearby lakes and war memorials, is better than a rushed visit.

Stay in a homestay or locally run guesthouse where you can, eat where the locals eat, and buy handmade goods such as Monpa woollens and handmade paper from local makers.