Gorilla country: Rwanda's volcano forests

Volcanoes National Park, in north-western Rwanda, protects part of the Virunga range, home to the mountain gorilla. Tracking them is a regulated, small-group experience: visitors are assigned to a habituated gorilla group, accompanied by trained trackers and guides, and are allowed a limited time with the animals once found. The permit system is run by the Rwanda Development Board.

Permits are expensive and fees change. Many guides cite US$1,500 per person per trek for foreign non-residents, but in January 2026 the board published promotional rates for Rwandans, East Africans and other African citizens and residents, valid until the end of 2026 (excluding June to October). The notice reported by KT Press did not state the standard rate for other international visitors, so confirm it directly with the Rwanda Development Board before you plan a budget.

Treks can last from an hour to most of a day, depending on where the group has moved overnight. The terrain is steep and often muddy, at altitudes of about 2,400 to 3,500 metres, so fitness, waterproofs and good boots matter. Porters can be hired locally at the park, and hiring one is a simple way to put money directly into the community.

The deeper story is about the communities around the park. As The National reported in 2015, conservationist Edwin Sabuhoro began working with former poachers and their families, and his work is profiled in this issue. Many have since become guides, porters and craftspeople. The idea is simple: when people who once hunted in the forest can earn more by protecting it, the forest benefits.

Practicalities: Rwanda's visa policy changes, so check the Directorate General of Immigration and Emigration. Plan to stay at least two nights near the park, since weather and group assignments can change at short notice. Keep a distance of at least the guide's stated limit, do not trek if you have a cold or other contagious illness, and never feed or touch the animals.

How to go well: book through licensed operators and follow park rules to the letter. A gorilla encounter is a privilege that depends on the discipline of everyone who goes.