The Dolomites in early summer: huts, lifts and patience

The Dolomites, in north-eastern Italy, are made of pale rock that glows at dawn and dusk, and were inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2009. They are known for walking, climbing and a network of mountain huts, called rifugi, that make multi-day hikes possible without carrying a tent.

Timing is the key to planning. In May many lifts and huts are still closed or open only on weekends, and snow lingers on higher trails. Most huts and cable cars begin their full summer operation around mid-June and run into late September. A May trip suits those who want lower valleys, villages and quieter trails, and who accept that high routes may not be open. If you want the classic high-altitude routes, plan for late June to September.

The region has its own character. It spans three provinces and several language communities, and in the South Tyrol you will hear German and Ladin as well as Italian. The food shows the same mixture, with dumplings, speck and polenta alongside pasta. Be ready for the reality that tourism is heavy in July and August, and that some of the best-known viewpoints, such as lakes and road passes, now have booking or traffic restrictions on peak days.

Practical matters: Indian passport holders need a Schengen visa for Italy, which should be applied for well ahead. Check the Italian ministry of foreign affairs and the VFS centre's current instructions. Carry insurance that covers mountain activities and rescue. Mountain weather changes quickly, so carry rain gear and layers even on a sunny morning, and tell the hut or hotel where you are going.

How to go well: use the local buses and lifts where they exist; book huts well ahead; and carry your waste back down. Many huts operate on small margins and appreciate guests who arrive on time and follow house rules.