Seychelles: granite islands and a conservation experiment

Seychelles is an archipelago in the western Indian Ocean, and its granite islands, such as Mahé, Praslin and La Digue, are the ones most travellers see. They are also home to some of the longest-running conservation projects in the region, which gives a visit a purpose beyond the beach.

Entry is straightforward but formal. The Immigration and Civil Status Office says that all visitors must hold an Electronic Travel Authorisation before leaving their country, applied for through the Seychelles e-Border app or the government portal. A visitor's permit is issued on arrival for holiday, business or family visits, and you need a valid return or onward ticket, confirmed accommodation and sufficient funds. The initial permit is free for the first three months. Fees for the authorisation itself differ between sources, from about EUR 10 to just over EUR 12 with charges; check the government site.

The case for staying a few days on the inner islands is the quiet, slow pace: cycling on La Digue, walking on Praslin, and taking small boats between granite headlands. Climate is warm all year, and there are two main wind seasons; wind and sea conditions affect inter-island ferries, so allow a spare day on each transfer.

The best-known conservation story is on Cousin Island, a small special reserve that is part of this issue's People pages. A visit there can be arranged through Nature Seychelles, the island's manager.

How to go well: choose small, locally owned guesthouses where you can, avoid souvenirs made from shell or coral, keep to marked paths on protected islands, and never feed wildlife.