The Taste of Travel: an Assamese meal, in order

A traditional Assamese meal has an order. It begins with khar, a class of dishes named for the alkaline ingredient that flavours them, traditionally a filtrate of water through banana-peel ash. Next come the sour dishes, called tenga, of which masor tenga, a light sour fish curry, is a signature. The souring can come from tomato, lemon or dried mangosteen. Mashes called pitika, such as aloo pitika with mustard oil, onion and green chilli, are common, and fermented bamboo shoot gives some fish dishes their sharpness.

Rice is central. Rice cakes called pitha, made from glutinous rice, are made for occasions like Bihu. Duck, often cooked with white gourd, is a favourite. The meal does not end with a sweet course; it traditionally ends with tamul-paan, betel nut with betel leaf.

Where to try it: Guwahati's restaurants, village homestays in Assam, and Bihu festival kitchens. Tell your host if you do not eat fish or meat; many dishes can be made vegetarian with notice.