Mexico: Monte Albán, above Oaxaca
A Zapotec capital on a levelled ridge, and a lesson in how interpretations change.
Monte Albán stands on an artificially levelled ridge in the central valley of Oaxaca, about 400 metres above the valley floor and at around 1,940 metres elevation. It was a Zapotec capital, founded around 500 BCE, and was largely abandoned around 900 to 1000 CE; some tombs were later reused by Mixtec people. It lies about 9 km from Oaxaca City and was inscribed by UNESCO in 1987 as part of the Historic Centre of Oaxaca and Archaeological Site of Monte Albán.
Among its best-known features are the Danzantes, carved stone figures of contorted, naked men. They were long called dancers, but are now interpreted as sacrificed war prisoners; more than 300 have been recorded. It is a good example of how scholarly readings change, and a reminder to hold guides' certainties lightly.
Pair it with the weavers' village of Teotitlán del Valle, about 31 km from Oaxaca City, whose community is profiled in this issue. Oaxaca's July festival, the Guelaguetza, is past, but September is a quieter time to visit. Entry rules depend on nationality; check Mexico's official immigration site.
How to go well: go early to avoid heat and crowds, carry water and a hat, stay on marked paths, and hire a licensed local guide.
Prices, dates, permits and rules change — approximate, verify before you travel. Researched from public sources; field verification pending.
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