Torres del Paine: walking Patagonia in spring

Torres del Paine, in Chile's Magallanes region, was created in 1959 and designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1978. The park covers about 181,000 hectares. Its name comes from a Tehuelche word for blue. Guanacos are among the most common animals, pumas and the endangered huemul live there, and the Andean condor is one of the 15 raptor species that breed in the park.

The two famous routes are the W, a trek of roughly three to five days, and the O, the full circuit of about seven to nine days. The usual season runs from September to April, so November is spring: longer days, changeable weather and fewer people than in January and February. Winter daylight drops to about eight hours a day, which is one reason the shoulder months are popular.

The park's rules reflect its history. Large fires in 1985, 2005 and 2011 each burned more than 100 square kilometres; the 2005 and 2011 fires were linked to accidents involving backpackers. Since October 2016, campsites and refuges must be booked before you enter. Book early, do not light fires, and cook only in designated places.

Staffing has been a recurring theme in reporting on the park, and independent coverage has been thin. If you go, choose operators who are open about their safety and conservation practices, and carry your own emergency plan.

Entry: Indian passport holders generally need a visa for Chile, but sources vary, so check with the Chilean consulate or the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.